24 Hours of Food (and Drink) in Madison

Last month, I had the pleasure of visiting a friend who recently moved to Madison, Wisconsin.  I had visited the city before, but only to stay overnight during a very long road trip (Boston to Los Angeles).  So, I hadn't really seen the city or experienced what it had to offer.  This trip changed all of that and the thing that I will remember Madison for is . . . the food.  Here's why:

Bagels Forever

This New York style bagel joint is always busy.  Their bagels are exported as far as Cleveland, Ohio so, you know they must be good.  And who doesn't love a good bagel?  They have plain bagels, but also make bagel sandwiches.  Stop by for breakfast or lunch and find out what everyone loves about them.

Brennan's Market

Wear your eatin' pants for this gem.  It's a cheese store that is chock full of free samples of cheese as well as some sausage, chips, dips, and other goodies.  We tried each sample and then tried some again (and again).  I'll be thoroughly impressed if you leave without purchasing some of Wisconsin's finest.  I know my friends and I purchased our fair share and then gorged on it when we got back home.  When in the land of cheese, you can't miss this!

One of the many sample stations available at Brennan's Market.  If you love cheese, you can't miss this!

The National Mustard Museum

Yes, incredibly enough, there is a museum of mustard . . . and it's located in Madison.  Upon entry, you'll be confronted with hundreds of varieties of mustard for sale.  There are plenty of samples that you can try with pretzel sticks.  In addition, there is a mustard concierge station of sorts at the back where staff will ask you questions about what kinds of mustard you like and then present you with samples of good options for you.  That's right, I said mustard concierge.  Chew on that, friends!  The lower level is a museum filled with information, news clippings, mustard pots, and anything else you'd ever want to know about mustard.  The best news?  The mustard museum is free!

Capital Brewery

This award-winning local Madison brewery serves up brews that are not widely available outside of Wisconsin.  The brewery offers tours for those interested.  They also have a very large beer garden where they host live music in the evenings.  Check their calendar for events.  I tried several of the beers here and I enjoyed all of them.  When we visited there was also an amazing deal available: get a Capital Brewery one liter dimpled mug (of the Oktoberfest variety) filled with beer for $15 and you get to take the mug home.  It's a great deal!

Sitting outside in the sunshine with brews at Capital Brewery.  They offer brewery tours and there are plenty of Capital goodies available in the shop.

Tipsy Cow

This bar in downtown Madison offers many area beers as well as the cocktail of Madison - the Brandy Old-Fashioned.  The drink is available in both sweet and sour varieties.  I'm not a big brandy drinker, but I found the sweet version to be quite enjoyable.  Others prefer the sour, but I'll leave it to you to make your own decision.

Graze

This farm-to-table restaurant offers amazing dishes using local produce, meat, and poultry.  It's located right next to the Capitol Building and offers lovely views of the building in the evening.  The Bibimbap is SO good and the macaroni & cheese is excellent too!  Be aware that this is a popular spot and you may wait a while if you don't have reservations.  However, the restaurant will text you when your table is ready and you can head to the nearby Tipsy Cow (see above) while you wait!

Madison Capitol Building at dusk.  Tours are available of the Capitol Building.  Plenty of dining and drink options are located nearby (see above Tipsy Cow and Graze, which are both excellent choices).

Tienda Los Gemelos

For those seeking something a bit more off the beaten path, this is a Mexican market with a restaurant inside.  It offers authentic fare in large portions for affordable prices.  The spot is located near a mall and other similar restaurants have cropped up nearby.  If you're still hungry after the meal (doubtful due to the large portions), there's a Mexican ice cream shop just across the street.

Tips for Travel in Europe During the Refugee Crisis

I visited Germany and Austria in September of 2015.  As with any other trip, I made my plans in advance and did my research.  I was aware of the refugee crisis, but at the time I booked my trip, it didn't seem as though it was going to have any impact on my plans.  However, about a week prior to my departure, that all changed.  Borders started closing and American media began publicizing exactly how massive in scale the crisis was.  Since my trip was already booked, I forged ahead.  But I certainly saw the scope of the refugee crisis during my trip and experienced the effects of the crisis on travel within Europe.  So, here is my advice on traveling in Europe during the refugee crisis.

Red Cross refugee camp immediately outside of the Salzburg train station.  Refugees, Red Cross workers, police and military were everywhere once you got close to the rail station.  I overheard a Red Cross worker telling a family this camp was full and they would need to place them elsewhere.

KEEP IT IN PERSPECTIVE

First thing's first - if you find your travel plans disrupted during the refugee crisis and you start to get upset, please remember what the refugees are experiencing.  Hundreds of thousands of Syrians have been displaced from their homes and have traveled for days at a time to get as far as Europe.  They left Syria, risking their own health and safety in order to escape a country that's experiencing conflict and violence.  Many times, they've left members of their own family behind.  I heard one man say that he and his friends had been traveling for nine days straight to make it as far as Salzburg (and he didn't mean by air and rail).  Now think about your travel plans.  Seems pretty miniscule in comparison, right?  Ok, now that we've sorted that out . . .

A protest in Berlin on September 24, 2015.  The group was protesting the closing of the German borders as well as the treatment of refugees by the government and others outside of Germany.

STAY INFORMED

Read whatever you can on developments on the crisis and how it might be affecting travel.  I say this not just because it's generally a good thing to remain informed as to world events, but also because the first I heard of potential travel disruption in Europe was from a New York Times article on my Twitter feed.  The article indicated that all trains traveling into Germany from other European countries had been halted and that all routes had resumed with the exception of trains traveling between Salzburg and Munich.  Guess who had a ticket on a train going from Munich to Salzburg (and back)?  Yeah, I did.  But for reading that article, I never would have known that I might have a problem taking the train to Salzburg.  So, read up on the topic if you're traveling within affected areas of Europe.  Otherwise, you might find out your travel plans have been canceled the hard way.

Once I found out that the rail lines had been interrupted, I decided to be super proactive about getting more information.  First, I downloaded the Deutsche Bahn app on my phone to monitor the rail schedule.  I noticed that many trains between Munich and Salzburg were being canceled with a note indicating it was for "police emergency."  After I arrived in Munich, I stopped at the Deutsche Bahn information desk since I was already at the train station for a day trip to Neuschwanstein Castle.  Only then did I get the full picture of what was going on.  According to the DB employee I spoke to, all of the high speed trains between Munich and Salzburg were canceled and they had no idea when the line would be restored.  I was told that I could keep my high-speed train ticket and get onto a regional (read slower) train to a small border town in Germany.  Once there, I would have to take a bus across the border into Austria.  The sad part is that Deutsche Bahn had my contact information from the time that I made the reservation and they hadn't so much as emailed to inform me of the cancellation.  So much for German reliability!  So, BE PROACTIVE!  As much as you might like to think your travel carrier will inform you of cancellations, that may not happen.

Another shot of the protest to give you a better idea of the size of the group.  It was very large and most participants appears to be in their 20's.

BE FLEXIBLE

Once I was aware of the full scope of the rail interruption, I started to weigh my options.  I could cancel my rail ticket and my accommodations in Salzburg for a full refund.  I could also continue on to Salzburg and either take the adventure offered by Deutsche Bahn or look into alternative ways to get there.  That's when a German friend told me about BlaBlaCar.  This is a new ride-sharing service in Europe - think Uber or Lyft for long distances, but with fares that aren't based on mileage.  Using the BlaBlaCar app I downloaded from the App Store, I found a driver with great ratings who was offering rides from Munich to Salzburg for only seven Euro (less than half the price of my train ticket).  Always on the lookout for an adventure, a new travel resource, and a way to save a few bucks, I jumped on it.  My ride to Salzburg was great!  I got to experience the Autobahn, meet some new people, and I got to my destination in less time than the regional train would have taken.

But, of course, the story doesn't end there.  The BlaBlaCar I had lined up for travel back to Munich fell through.  Since I wanted to be back in Munich around noon, I decided to try the regional train offered by DB, rather than wait for another BlaBlaCar leaving later that day.  That ended up being quite the adventure, I can assure you.  First of all, DB had flyers redirecting passengers with train tickets.  The flyers were directions on how to get to the small German border town of Freilassing.  The buses (yes, you had to take more than one) to Freilassing were overcrowded with tourists in the same predicament and refugees trying to get across the border.  As the bus approached the German border, you really started to understand the scope of the refugee crisis.  People were walking from all directions to the border in an effort to enter into Germany.  Once we arrived at the border, the police boarded the bus and checked everyone's passports.  Those without passports, including the refugees, were removed from the bus.  I'm not sure what happened to them.  Hopefully they were simply told they needed the appropriate formal documentation before they could cross the border.  But the uncertainty caused some on the bus to start crying.  The whole scene was sad.  I've never felt worse for being able to cross a border.  It truly reminded me that the ability to travel freely is a gift that should never be taken for granted. 

The view as we approached the German border on the bus from Salzburg, Austria to Freilassing, Germany.  Refugees lined the sidewalks and it became clear that many of them had been there for days.  Tents and informal makeshift bathing stations were nearby.  The man in this picture was later removed from the bus by police at the border because, as a refugee, he did not have a passport with him.

After disembarking the bus and walking about a mile across the small German border town to the train station (without directions, I might add . . . thanks again DB!), I boarded the train with all my fellow bus passengers in tow.  Clearly, we made it back to Munich safely.  But I would definitely recommend BlaBlaCar over DB if you find yourself in a similar situation.

YOU CAN HELP

If you are interested in helping Syrian refugees, please donate.  The United Nations is accepting donations for Syrian refugees here.

You can also donate to your local refugee resettlement agency or contact them for other ways you might be able to assist.

Oktoberfest!

Oktoberfest is one of the most famous festivals in the world.  Having recently attended for the first time, I can say that this festival is definitely one worth attending.  But if you're interested in attending, there are several things you should know. 

Plan Ahead

Oktoberfest takes place in Germany, a country of planners.  So, reservations for tables for the fest are usually sold out at least nine months before it takes places each year.  It's still possible to attend and find places to sit in the beer tents without a reservation.  However, accommodations also sell out quickly.  This includes hostel accommodations who frequently release all of their beds/rooms for the fest on a designated day several months before the fest.  This means that if you haven't planned ahead, it's likely that you'll be without a place to stay or you'll pay through the nose for it.  Don't be that person!  Oktoberfest is expensive enough without all of that. 

Sign at the entrance to the festival with the Marstall tent in the background.

My tip: if you've decided you want to attend Oktoberfest, start planning about a year ahead of time.  If you're lucky, you might be able to snag reservations at one of the beer tents if you start this far ahead.  At the very least, you can figure out what part of the festival you'd like to attend, how many days you'd like to be there (there is tons to see in Munich outside of the fest), and determine where you'd like to stay.  Once you've figured out a few of your potential hotels or hostels, you should contact them to find out when they release their rooms for that period.  Once you get that information, PUT IT IN YOUR CALENDAR (with multiple alarms to remind yourself).  This way you can be one of the first people to jump online and nab your reservation.  From there, you just need to worry about your flight, which is easy in comparison.  Congratulations, you're well on your way to the festival!

Get There Early

Every day the tents have reservations for at least half of their tables.  However, these reservations don't usually start until 3:30 - 5:00 pm.  Arrive several hours before that and you'll be able to sit inside a tent and enjoy the live music and tent atmosphere until you're forced to vacate for the reservations.  Get really lucky and maybe you'll nab a table that isn't reserved later, leaving you to enjoy the tent for the rest of the day.  If you aren't able to get there early (sleeping off a hangover, friend?), fret not.  If someone fails to show up for a reserved table, the waitress may fill it with others waiting.  In addition, there are always tables that are not reserved (roughly 50% on the weekends, much less on the weekdays) where you might still find a seat inside a tent.  Finally, each tent has large beer gardens where it's usually easy to find a seat.  You won't be able to enjoy the live music from outside, but you can always enjoy a drink while you wait out a seat inside.

Full moon provides the background for Oktoberfest revelry in the beer garden at the Augustiner tent.

Pace Yourself

The beer served at the festival is probably not the beer you're used to drinking.  The ABV is higher than most mainstream beers in the United States.  So, if you start drinking it like it is, you won't last very long.  I met a group of Australians who only had one day at the festival.  They were so excited (and thirsty, evidently) that they immediately started chugging liters of beer upon their arrival.  The end result?  Yes, they attended Oktoberfest, but they have ZERO recollection of it.  You may also see drunken people getting kicked out of tents or wheeled out on gurneys.  You don't need a large medical bill on top of everything.  Don't be that person!  Start at a slower pace than you're used to and stick with it.  Then you'll have lots of new friends and wonderful memories of the fest to take home with you.

In typical Oktoberfest fashion, folks standing on their seats and singing along with the band.

Make Friends

Making new friends is one of the best parts of Oktoberfest.  You're surrounded by strangers in tight quarters so meeting them is easy.  All you need to do is hold your beer up to toast them and, next thing you know, you'll be talking.  These new friends can have a truly positive impact on your Oktoberfest experience.  For example, I met a lovely older couple who were from Munich one day at the festival.  When I bumped into them in another crowded tent later that evening, they went out of their way to make sure they found space for me to sit with them.  The tent was extremely crowded and I am convinced that, but for their efforts, I would have had to sit outside in the beer garden.  So, get out there and be social!  You never know what positive outcome might come of it and, at the very least, you'll leave with new friends.

Beer tents like this one (the Augustiner tent) can hold in excess of 6,000 people.

Additional Tips

ORDERING

You can't order a beer in a tent unless you're seated at a table.  So, don't bother trying.

PAYING & TIPPING

You can only pay in cash.  So, make sure you've got plenty on hand when you arrive.  A beer costs about 11 Euro.  You'll need to pay as soon as your beer or food is delivered.  Be aware of how much you want to pay (including tip) and tell the waiter/waitress this amount when you hand him/her your money.  If you don't do this, they'll just give you exact change without taking a tip.  Don't leave your tip on the table.  They don't accept tips like this.  It's customary to either just round up to the next full Euro or tip about 10% (depending on your total).

DRINKING

Each tent usually only serves one brand of beer.  So, make sure you like the beer in a tent before you decide to spend your time trying to find a seat inside.  Augustiner is the local favorite.  Hofbrau is where you can find most tourists.

Don't take the last bit of your beer and pour it into your new beer.  Germans think this is vile and they will say that you've ruined your new beer.  I made this mistake so you didn't have to.  You're cooler than that!

Waitress in a tent carrying beer and blowing on her whistle to get folks to move out of her way.

TOASTING

Always look the person you're toasting in the eye when you hit your glasses together.

DRESS

Most of the people in the tents will be wearing traditional trachten.  However, there are a fair number of people in plain clothes as well (both locals and tourists).  You can buy lederhosen or a dirndl if you want to be part of the fun, but you should be aware that these aren't cheap.  You can find really cheap versions at the main train station, but these look really bad and you'll stick out like a sore thumb.  Visit second-hand or smaller stores for the best deal on the traditional garb, but be aware you'll probably spend at least 100 Euro if you want something that looks halfway decent. 

SAFETY

The festival is full of security guards and police.  So, it's one of the safest places you can be.  I thought all of the beer would mean lots of fights.  But everyone (with the exception of a very few tourists) are super happy and friendly.  It's easy to catch the train to and from the festival and Munich is generally an extremely safe place.  I attended the festival alone some days and never felt like I was anywhere close to being in danger.  Might an unknown person grab your butt?  Sure.  Will a drunken stranger try to kiss you?  Probably.  But keep your wits about you (see "Pace Yourself" above) and you'll be fine!

One Oktoberfest attendee having fun with one of the absolutely massive security guards at a tent.

AFTER PARTIES

Many people don't realize that the festival closes at 10:30pm.  If you've heeded my warning about pacing yourself, then you may still be standing.  And, if that's true, there are some places nearby where many folks head to continue the party.  An Irish bar called Kennedy's isn't far, but you can take a pedicab if you'd rather not walk.  Just around the corner from there is a nightclub called Milchundbar.  If you've never seen a nightclub full of young people in trachten dancing to modern music, it's a pretty entertaining sight to behold.

SEE IT ALL

The festival is not just about the beer tents, although those are a large part of it.  The rest of the festival grounds contains food vendors, games, rides, shops, etc.  So, take the time to wander around and see it all.  There is a toboggan ride that you SHOULD NOT miss.  The ride requires people to take a fast-paced people mover up to the top and, well, people aren't very good at riding it.  So, it's notorious for having people fall on it (don't worry, they don't get hurt).  As a result, a large crowd gathers at the front of the ride to watch the melee ensue.  It's great for a laugh.

PROST!  HAVE A BLAST!

Stay Weird Austin!

I recently visited the great city Austin.  I had heard wonderful things about the area, but it was never high on my list of places to visit since I've been focusing on international destinations recently.  Fortunately, a national conference changed all of that.  I don't travel frequently for work, but when I heard this particular conference would be taking place in Austin this year, I knew I wanted to go and tried to position myself to make it irresistible for my work to send me.  I even went so far as to propose a couple of seminar presentations to see if the conference wanted me (among others) to present.  Well, it worked!  And, since I now had the financial backing of my employer, I decided to stay for the weekend as well to see as much of the metropolis as I possibly could.  Here's what I learned . . .

The Colorado River flows through downtown Austin, but not the one you might think (this one starts and ends in Texas).  The river has plenty of activities including a great trail for running, kayaks for rent, etc.

Due to a hectic work schedule, I hadn't done much of my normal pre-trip research.  In addition, I knew that my free time would be limited because of the conference.  Fortunately, I'm not afraid of talking to strangers and the folks in Austin are SUPER friendly.  So, from the Super Shuttle ride to my hostel and onwards, I interrogated everyone I met about what I should do, where I should eat, etc.  Not only was everyone I spoke to extremely willing to offer suggestions, but their recommendations were also amazing!  This was undoubtedly my absolute favorite part of Austin . . . the people!  Everyone I met was kind, generous, and beyond friendly.  They bought me drinks, gave me souvenirs, cheered me on while I struggled on a bicycle, and encouraged me to move to the city after I had fallen in love with it.  These people are, without a doubt, the best asset of Austin!

Carson Creek in Austin

River tubing was one of the only things I had decided was necessary while I was in Austin.  There are a number of companies that provide tubes and coolers for a float down one of the rivers on the outskirts of the city.  Unfortunately, the night before I arrived there was a massive storm and nearly everyone I spoke to informed me that the rivers were likely closed and, at the least, extremely unsafe as a result.  I hate it just as much as the next person when things don't go to plan.  But it's important to remember that a vacation should be fun and you should take as much advantage of a new city as you can, regardless of whether your plans are ruined.  Fortunately, I had already spoken to plenty of people in town about things I should do when in Austin.  And, when in the Live Music Capitol . . . go to a music festival! 

LA Witch at Psych Fest

I was fortunate enough to be in Austin during a music festival.  It wasn't one of the famous festivals in Austin, but when I heard it was happening, I knew it would be interesting.  The Psych Fest is a festival for psychedelic rock music.  I had heard of a couple of the bands that were playing, but was not familiar with any of their music so it was the perfect festival to visit.  There was no pressure to make sure I didn't miss this band or that, I could just casually view whatever band caught my fancy.  And, although I wasn't even familiar with the genre of psychedelic rock, I definitely became a fan of multiple bands while I was at the festival.  The music was amazing, the scenery was absolutely beautiful, and some of best food trucks and shops in the area were present at the festival as well.  It was an absolutely fabulous day and proved that sometimes even the most unexpected things can become your favorite experiences.

The best known karaoke bar in Austin, Ego's.  As it turns out, it's in a parking garage.  Literally - you have to walk through a parking garage to reach the entrance.  Super popular so just hope you don't have to wait two hours to get your song request played!

Austin Recommendations are below.  Enjoy and remember that The Adventures Await received NOTHING in exchange for listing these businesses on the site.  I only recommend businesses I would actually suggest to friends!

Activities (things I would have done in Austin if I could have):

• River Tubing - I did research and this is the company I would have gone with if I could have.
• Running Tour - these tours visit various destinations in the city depending on what interests you and you don't have to be a fast runner to participate.
• Brewery Tour - there are many excellent breweries in Austin so this would be worthwhile.

Brunch:

• Moonshine - Sunday brunch buffet (wear pants with an elastic waist . . . don't say I didn't warn you).
• Taverna - Saturday and Sunday brunch with $2 (YES TWO DOLLAR) mimosas!

Restaurants:

• Chupacabra Cantina - yummy tacos and you can get a giant beer margarita if you are so inclined.
• Barbeque - Austin is famous for its barbeque.  I didn't try any so I won't make any recommendations, but everyone says you shouldn't miss it!

Shopping:

• South Congress Street
• Second Street

Nights Out:

• Pete's - a dueling piano bar . . . scoff away, but this place is a fantastic night out!
• Rainey Street - a great street of bars in houses.  My favorites were Clive and Bungalow.
• Sixth Street - there's something for everyone on "dirty sixth," from mechanical bulls to rooftop patios.  My favorites were Blind Pig and Pete's (see above).
• Ego's - the best karaoke in Austin.  Only a true dive bar could make you enter through a parking garage and I, for one, LOVE it.
• Handlebar - described to me as the male version of Coyote Ugly.  Male bartenders have handlebar mustaches and wear tank tops and cut-off denim shorts.  Nuff said.
• Firehouse Lounge - for a quieter and classier night out, this lounge is hidden behind a sliding bookshelf in a hostel just off of Sixth Street and it serves some of the best cocktails around.

Accommodation:

• Firehouse Hostel - a hostel with many different room options (including private rooms), friendly staff, a first-class lounge on the main floor, and an unbeatable location that's close to all of the nightlife in downtown Austin.